Best Hikes in Yosemite National Park

It was July of 2015, three months in to what we planned to be just 5 months of living in our RV to redirect our income from living in a house to chasing a few longer road trips.

We had already done a 10-day road trip up the coast to Big Sur and a 3 week road trip through Arizona, Utah, and Colorado.

From there, we headed back to San Diego to check up on our brick-and-mortar, only to realize that the work was being covered and we actually could start our next road trip a week earlier than expected.

“Awesome! Let’s see what the hype over Yosemite National Park is all about.” I said to Victor.

So we drove up Highway 395 to Lee Vining and headed west.

As we rounded one of the sharp bends, my jaw dropped. I had no idea granite could be so beautiful and reach so high towards the sky.

It was incredible how quickly the scenery changed as we drove the steep and windy climb on Tioga Pass toward Yosemite. 

The streaks of red and gold against the gray slab set on top of a green forest are awe-inspiring. Then, nature decided to go and outdo itself by placing these beautiful light green meadows with crystal clear rivers running through it. 

I felt dumbstruck as I thought, “Oh! Yosemite!  Now I get it!”

All this time, I thought the popularity of Yosemite was just a coincidence based on its proximity to the populous Bay Area cities, but I was wrong. 

I quickly learned that Yosemite, especially Tuolumne Meadows, is like its own little secret community. A community that’s not built with money or power, but by a connection of awareness and appreciation that can only be achieved through spending time there.

In addition to being wrong about the park’s beauty, I was pleasantly surprised that the weather in Tuolumne that week was perfect. Unlike Yosemite Valley, which was in the low nineties, the Tuolomne area was in the mid-seventies. Contrary to the forecast, there was only one night of thunderstorms for about an hour the first night we were there, which was spectacular to watch, especially from the safety of our motorhome. For the remaining four nights, we had clear skies, which meant gorgeous nights full of twinkling stars.

Camp at Tuolumne Meadows

Have you camped in a national park before? Camping inside the national park is the best way to experience all the beauty of it, and makes it so easy to access the hikes and the shuttle systems.  

We also had no trouble getting a first-come, first-served campsite on the Tuolumne Meadows side.  Although I do recommend being there early in the morning to get your site. I did notice that even on July 4th, one of the busiest days of the year, there were sites available until about 9 am. This campground has water and flush toilets, but the closest shower is back in Lee Vining, 30 minutes away. 

Don’t let that deter you, though.  There are beautiful rivers and lakes that you can jump in, and right at the campground, there is a fun rock water slide! 

If you do go to Tuolumne in the summer or on a weekend, it is a good idea to try to reserve your campground ahead of time.

Become a Junior Ranger

After getting settled into our campsite, we took the short hike along the John Muir Trail, which can be accessed from loop B or C to the visitor center to pick up trail maps and a Junior Ranger booklet at the Visitor Center.  

The visitor center is often crowded, so if you don’t have young kids or aren’t looking to get backpacking permits, you could skip this and spend your time taking in the views of the forests and meadows. There is also a camp store right by the campground if you forget something.

1. Hike To Dog Lake & Lambert’s Dome 

Want to feel like a mountain goat scurrying across the rocks? Lambert’s Dome is just the place for you.

One unique thing in Tuolumne Meadows is that you can walk to the top of many domes, which are huge granite rocks, without having to do any technical rock climbing to the top. 

Lembert Dome sits 800 feet above the meadow, and you can walk/scramble to the top to take in the incredible views from on top. The rock is quite sticky, and the angle of the rock is low, making it very safe. Plus,

From the campground, walk out to Tioga Road and go east just a few feet to the Lembert Dome parking area to start the hike. It’s .6 miles to the split for Dog Lake and Lembert’s Dome. Go straight towards Dog Lake first, following the signs, then backtrack to this junction and head left to the junction for Lembert’s Dome.  

It’s a half-mile hike to the top of the dome.  After you’ve taken in the epic views, backtrack to the main trail heading toward the Dog Lake parking lot.  

If you parked at the Lembert Dome parking area and didn’t start from the campground, then you’ll go right on the PCT after you pass the Dog Lake parking lot.

Dog Lake and Lembert’s Dome Loop: 3.7 miles and 846 feet elevation gain

2. Hike to Elizabeth Lake

If you did start at the campground or want to keep hiking on to Elizabeth Lake, then go left on the PCT for a little under a mile until you reach the John Muir Trail (JMT) where you’ll go right (west) toward the campground.

After .7 miles, you can go right through loop A and get back to the campground or continue another .2 miles and go left to do the five-mile round trip hike to Elizabeth Lake, which of course I recommend doing.

Adding in Elizabeth Lake makes it a total of 9.3 miles an additional 843 feet of elevation gain.

3. Hike to Cathedral Lake

Ready for a more challenging hike?  This is a gorgeous hike and a popular backpacking destination too (permit needed to overnight).  It’s an 8.6-mile round-trip hike to two alpine lakes. It gains 1,550 feet so it might not be your best bet for young kids. You can park at the trailhead or hop on the free shuttle and get off at the Cathedral Lakes Trailhead.  

4. Yosemite Valley

For those seeking a memorable day of exploration without the constraints of obtaining a hiking permit, you’ll love hiking the Four Mile Trail to Panorama Trail to Mist Trail in Yosemite, which takes you to incredible views of Half Dome and past roaring waterfalls.

This hike is strenuous, long, hard, and absolutely the most “bang-for-your-buck”, all-inclusive hike in Yosemite that doesn’t require a hiking permit.

In this 12-mile hike, you’ll see Yosemite Falls, Glacier Point, Vernal Falls, and Nevada Falls from multiple angles.

How To Shuttle This Hike

This is a through hike so if the shuttle isn’t running and you don’t have someone to drive you back to the starting point, then it cannot be hiked in one day. One option, though, would be to bring bikes, park your car at the start of the Mist Trail, and ride your bike to the start of the Four Mile Trail. Then you could drive back to the start of the Four Mile trail to pick up your pick at the end of the day (don’t forget a bike lock).

The hike is best when the falls are running so spring or early summer is best. You can check the water levels here.

Start the hike from the Four Mile Trailhead. This is probably the most strenuous section of the whole hike. It’s a steep 4.8 miles that gains over 3000 feet.

The Four Mile Trail gives you amazing views of Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls.  You’ll catch yourself taking a picture of the falls at every switchback because the view continuously improves as you get higher.

At the 3-mile mark, you’ll reach signposts where you’ll split left.  It’s about an hour and a half to this signpost and less than an hour further to Glacier Point.

After 4.8 miles you’ll reach Glacier Point.  Hike the small .2-mile loop to the lookout point and have a snack. You’ll be astonished by the iconic views of Half Dome, Nevada Falls, and Yosemite Falls.

Soak in every precious view and savor the resting point, you’re only 1/3 of the way through the hike. Here you can refill your water bottles and use the bathroom.

Tip: If you don’t want to carry all your water, there are water fountains at Glacier Point (mile 5) and at the bottom of Vernal Falls (mile 12). Since we were hiking it in early summer and there were a lot of small tributaries of waterfalls on the trail we were able to refill our water bottles often at with this water filter.

Now you’ll begin the downhill section of the Panorama Trail to Illilouette Falls/Creek. This 2-mile section is slightly downhill so your legs will get a break.

This section is also one of the best on the hike, athough all the sections are stunning, and you’ll understand e why it’s called Panorama Trail. When you hike this section because the view combines Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, Nevada Falls, and Vernal Falls.

Don’t let the grandiose views to your left deter you from taking in the subtly beautiful views on your right.

After a bit more than an hour, you’ll reach the significantly less crowded and equally beautiful waterfall, Illilouette Falls. Take a break here because the next section is a tough uphill again but save your snack for the next section.

After you pass Illilouette Falls, you’ll climb the least amazing section—but that’s like saying Florence isn’t pretty compared to Paris, it’s still gorgeous!— for 3.2 miles.  

From this direction, you won’t get any more views of Half Dome but you will see a dramatic thumb-shaped rock, that seems to be molded out of Play-Doh, as well as Yosemite’s valley floor.

This section takes nearly two hours upon which you’ll reach the top of Nevada Falls.

About fifteen minutes before you reach Nevada Falls there is a large flat rock expanse you walk through. This is a better spot than Nevad Falls to take a rest, grab a snack and hydrate.

This is where you start the Mist Trail.

Cross the river, head right, and descend the polished stone steps. Going down the steps you’ll get up close and personal with Nevada Falls.  

Never in my life have I seen so much water in a waterfall! Tons and tons of gallons of water pour off the cliff’s edge in sheets at speeds so fast that all of the water is whitewashed.

I’ve seen waterfalls in many countries throughout our travel yet nothing I’ve seen comes close to matching the power of Yosemite’s waterfalls.

It’s called the Mist Trail for a reason. After you finish descending the stairs, prepare to get wet. 

The waterfall comes down with so much power that you get soaked head to toe while walking a mile of it. This section is 1.8 miles, less than an hour, half of it being hiked wet, until you finally reach Vernal Falls. 

Optional: Vernal Falls to Yosemite Valley via John Muir Trail- 2.7 miles, 1:15 hours

This last section is by far the most fun, but also the most crowded. If you’ve been to Zion National Park and hiked Angel’s Landing, imagine the crowds there, now add water.

Start this section at the stairs with a handrail.  If you are too intimated looking down at the trail, then you can choose to take the wide and dry John Muir trail down. 

It’s longer and not nearly as fun as the Mist Trail, but if you don’t feel comfortable, don’t take the risk on this slippery trail.

After the stairs, you’ll start getting wet, although it’s more like sitting in the splash zone at a Sea World Shamu show. You’ll also get your first view of Vernal Falls against the bright green plants, and if you’re lucky, you’ll also see a natural kaleidoscope rainbow or two.

Don’t try to pass people and hurt someone, enjoy the views, get wet, and be patient.

Normally the stairs aren’t all wet, but as I’m hiking it on an extremely wet year, the stairs were more like a waterfall in itself. The plants you walked along make you question if you’re in the tropics. The trail is misty and wet for about half a mile and it takes close to 30 minutes to descend the most amazing section.  After passing that section, it’s another mile down a steep paved trail to Yosemite Valley.

Bonus: Climb Pothole Dome

Do you climb?  Head to Pothole Dome for some kid-friendly climbing.  Unlike all the stout climbing of Yosemite, this was easy slab climbing that you can top rope. You can get here from the campground or the visitor center via the free shuttle.  Just hop on the shuttle heading toward Yosemite Valley and get off at the Pothole Dome stop (it’s only 3 stops from the visitor center).

Need a leg stretcher on the way up? If you drive up the 395 to get to Tuolumne Meadows, this is a nice hike right after you pass Bishop and before the turn-off for Mammoth Lakes.

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