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How to Hike the Tour Du Mont Blanc Self Guided

planning a self guided tour du Mont Blanc trek

The 105 mile Tour du Mont Blanc hike is one of the most renowned, prestigious, and extraordinary backpacking trips in the world. While challenging, this trek doesn’t require any special expertise and hiring a guide isn’t necessary. This guide will help you plan your very own, self guided Tour du Mont Blanc trek and experience one of the greatest hikes on earth.

While the Tour du Mont Blanc is considered one of the greatest walks in the world, a surprisingly large number of people have never heard of this famous hike that takes you around the base of one of the Alp’s largest mountains, Mont Blanc.

Col de Balme camping and refuge, Tour du mont blanc
The Tour’s namesake…grand, massive, and magical

Mont Blanc stands with commanding presence at a whopping 15,771 feet and getting to stare at its beauty from the top of Le Brévent, in the energetic town of Courmayeur, or on the exhilarating cable car of the Aiguille du Midi will forever leave you awe inspired.

Taking on the Tour Du Mont Blanc and seeing the regal giant from all sides can be a life changing experience and while it is a realistic adventure for all skill levels, if you are thinking of tackling this monumental journey, please read though this thoroughly to make sure you know what you are getting yourself into and to set yourself up for optimal success.

There is so much I wish I had known before I started hiking the Tour Du Mont Blanc. While we still had a wonderful journey, it would have been even more enjoyable if I had known more before hand.

That’s not to say I didn’t plan it. I spent dozens of hours researching the Tour du Mont Blanc in hopes of planning the perfect trip but the problem was, the information simply wasn’t out there.

I hope this planning guide will give you ample beta so you can plan the perfect Tour du Mont Blanc adventure.

What Is The Tour Du Mont Blanc?

The Tour du Mont Blanc is a 168 km (104 mile) trail that goes around Mont Blanc Massif and has a total height gain and loss of 32,000 feet (10,000m) depending on the variants you choose…that’s the equivalent of climbing Mount Everest (without the high altitude of course).

Mont Blanc doesn’t stand alone. It’s flanked by the Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille Noire, Aiguille du Midi, the Verte and Drus, Mont Maudit and Mont Dolent. Names like this may mean nothing while in the planning stage (I get it, that was totally me when I was planning too), but these jagged, glacier covered peaks will become seared in your memory for a lifetime after seeing it firsthand.

The rad part is that this conglomerate of peaks and glaciers are touched by 3 countries, France, Italy, and Switzerland, which means in order to walk the circumference of Mont Blanc you get to experience all 3 countries, each with its own culture, vibe, and food specialties.

What makes this trek so unique compared to some of the other greatest treks in the world is that you have the option to stay at accommodation like refuges, chalets, and hotels along the way instead of camping, though camping is certainly still an option.

When you hike the Tour du Mont Blanc you aren’t summiting any of these peaks. In fact, you rarely even walk along the base of peaks. Usually you walk along a hillside across the valley so that you can look at the Mont Blanc Massif from a better vantage point.

Stage 11 of the Tour du Mont Blanc from Le Brevent to Les Houches
No doubt one of the greatest views of the entire Tour Du Mont Blanc lies in the glorious section of Stage 11

On the Tour du Mont Blanc, your goal is to find the lowest point between peaks, known as the “col”, and walk the valleys between the cols which surround this massive mountain range. Every time you go over one of these cols, you’ve gone over a “pass” and there are 10 or 11 passes along the way depending upon the variant you take.

Stage 2 variant on Tour du Mont Blanc
From the summit of Col de Fours you can see the beautiful Aiguillette des Glaciers. It’s incredible place on the Tour du Mont Blanc to stop and take it all in

You never have to worry about getting lost, the trail is very well marked.

Besides making the hike easier than what a mountaineer would take on, you get incredible views of Mont Blanc from many different vantage points along the way because you are looking at the mountain from a distance.

Map of the Tour du Mont Blanc

I found this map to be most helpful in the preliminary stages of planning our Tour du Mont Blanc trek.

I suggest pinning this map to one of your Pinterest boards or screenshotting it for easy access.

Planning your self guided TMB trek is going to be very confusing until you’ve got a good understanding of this map.

Map of the Tour du Mont Blanc
A map of the overall Tour du Mont Blanc hiking route Map credit via

Reasons To Hike The Tour Du Mont Blanc

I’ve done a lot of hikes and traveled to many countries, hiking the TMB is at the top of my list for 3 reasons:

  1. Glaciers: We’ve seen a lot of glaciers through our travels but never so many in such a short period of time. If glaciers make you happy, you have to do the TMB.
  2. Food: The food in Europe is so delicious, but to me, the French do food best. I’m not talking about overpriced Parisian food. I mean the down to earth real food you can find in every French town. Baguettes, butter, croissants, chocolate cakes, berries, coffee, and most of all the incredibly fresh and gorgeous looking produce. You haven’t had lettuce until you’ve had it in France! The refugees in Italy were insanely good good too.
  3. Solitude: Sure we passed people on the trail but for the most part, we had a ton of solitude. I can’t remember the last time my mind felt so at peace. While moments of guilt may have crept in for leaving leaving my little ones at home for this adventure, the wellness I gained from this experience can’t be measured and I am so much healthier and whole for taking on this journey of a lifetime.

If that isn’t enough to inspire you, check out these 35 insane pics that Gabi captured along the way.

Why You Should Go With Self Guided

Up until I was actually on the trail, I didn’t realize so many people choose to go with a guide on the Tour du Mont Blanc.

Honestly, a guide is really unnecessary and this hike is anything but a rugged adventure. Challenging? Yes. But rugged? No. There is almost no risk of getting lost, you’re practically staying in a hotel every night, and you pass through civilization daily.

Stage 2 variant on Tour du Mont Blanc
Catching up with other hikers and chatting on our descent into Ville des Glaciers

I’m guessing you already know the benefits of a self guided trek if you’ve found this blog, but to sum up, by trekking the TMB self guided you’ll save money, you’ll have control over your agenda, and you don’t have to socialize all the time. Even if you are a social butterfly, the communities that you meet at each refuge should satiate your craving for meeting people.

The only reason not to go with a self guided tour would be if you’re the type who really doesn’t like planning and doesn’t mind letting someone have full control of the schedule.

Where Does the Tour du Mont Blanc Start & End?

Traditionally, the Tour du Mont Blanc starts in the Chamonix Valley in Les Houches, which is a short bus ride from Chamonix. Many hikers also choose to start in Courmayeur, Italy especially if it is easier to get a flight into Milan.

Technically, the Tour du Mont Blanc is circular so you really can start it anywhere.

The reason most start in Les Houches and hike it in a counter clockwise direction is that it leaves the most dramatic views of Mont Blanc and the slopes of the Aiguilles Rouges chain for the end.

Most people choose to start the Tour du Mont Blanc in Chamonix, France or Courmayeur, Italy because these towns are big enough to get supplies in, they are easy to find transportation to and from, and are lively ski towns that are destinations in themselves.

How to Get to The Tour du Mont Blanc

The closest international airports are Geneva, Switzerland or Milan, Italy and getting a bus to Chamonix or Courmayeur is very easy. As I’ve mentioned, depending on where you’re flying from, Milan may be a cheaper and/or easier flight though I will say that I liked Chamonix far more Courmayeur.

We always use Skyscanner to find cheap flights. Use the search box below to find cheap flights from your chosen location.

Buses and Trains to Chamonix

Since we were starting in Chamonix, we flew into Geneva and then took a bus to Chamonix. We used both AlpyBus, Easy Bus, and Swiss Tours for different legs of our bus ride.

Most important about this part is to try and avoid flying in late at night. There are very few bus services that run late at night which means you have opt for the train (which is pain) or pay for a private transfer.

Initially we booked with AlpyBus because they were one of the few options that had option at 11pm but unfortunately our flight got delayed to get to Geneva and by the time we arrived, we had missed our booked shuttle ride and there were no other shuttles running that night that they could re-book us on.

We ended up rebooking a new ride with EasyBus since their first bus of the day was at 6am whereas as AlpyBus wasn’t until 10am or so and on the way back we rode with Swiss Tours.

Bus Services to Chamonix

Prices are per person

  • AlpyBus: 25 Euros one way, 50 Euro round-trip; I can’t vouch for AlpyBus since I never actually got a chance to ride their however their booking process was really easy and the benefit of their service is that they’ll drop you off at your specific accommodation. They also have private transfers and they can take you to Courmayeur or Champex if you’re starting somewhere else.
  • EasyBus: 17 Euros one way, 34 Euro round-trip; A cheap option with early morning service. Smooth and easy process even though we booked less than 24 hours in advance.
  • SwissTours: 10-15 Euros one way (depending on the day); SwissTours was simple and easy and even though it’s a bus not a shuttle, they were upscale busses with restrooms and wifi. Slightly longer bus ride since they stop in the city of Geneva. Amazing value for the price.
  • Mountain Drop-offs: Did not ride this one personally but is known as one of the highest rated ride services to Chamonix. Suitable for late arrivals since they offer private shuttles.

Riding a train can be a really cheap option however the train route to Geneva requires a lot of transfers which can be real drag especially when your’e super excited to get on the trail.

Overall, try to avoid arriving in Geneva Airport late at night and if you do, it’s best to save yourself the headache and pay for a private transfer.

If you are traveling within Europe, local train travel to Chamonix is very easy option and often doesn’t require many transfers

Staying in Chamonix

Most hikers opt to stay in their starting town for a few days before or after their TMB trek purely for the sake of enjoying the beautiful towns.

I absolutely loved staying a few days in Chamonix. If you are considering spending a few days here before or after (or both like us) then check out our complete guide to Chamonix (coming soon).

We loved staying at La Folie Douce hotel and highly recommend it for all trekkers.

Related: Why We Love La Folie Douce Hotel in Chamonix

If you you’ve brought a tent and are planning on tent camping on the TMB, you’ll want to stay at Camping Les Arolles in town.

The town of Chamonix is super pedestrian friendly no matter where you stay and there’s even a free bus system to get around town if necessary.

We use to find great hotel deals.

Getting to Les Houches

Assuming that you’re tackling the TMB the traditional anti-clockwise direction, you’re starting point is in the town of Les Houches which you actually pass right through when you drive into Chamonix from Geneva.

When you’re ready to begin you’re trek, you’re going to want to get on the bus that departs every 30 minutes from Chamonix Sud, the main bus station in Chamonix that is hard to miss.

Note that this isn’t the only way to start the TMB and if there are many alternate starting options.

Public Transport for stage 1 of Tour du Mont Blanc
Train stop in Les Houches

For example, we started our tour by riding the Le Brevent cable car right from the town of Chamonix. We did this because of unfavorable weather conditions to unfavorable weather predictions and we wanted to make sure we didn’t miss out on the amazing views of stage 11.

Because weather is so unpredictable in the Alps, even in the summer, I highly encourage you to have a plan and then a few back up plans.

Read How We Fast Packed the TMB to get you ideas on how you can deviate from the traditional route in case the weather isn’t ideal for you.

Refuges vs Camping

There are two main ways to go about accommodation on the Tour. The most popular option is to stay at hotels and refuges as mentioned earlier.

Refuges are what make the TMB a really unique backpacking experience. Not only does it mean you can carry a very light pack, but you also get to trek through one of the world’s most stunning mountain ranges whilst eating like a king every evening from a remote and cozy mountain hut.

Refuge food is really ridiculously food and there is nowhere else in the world where you can eat so luxuriously while backpacking.

At the same time, refuges are very expensive ranging from 50-60 Euros per person per night (half board price with dinner and breakfast included) so we personally opted for camping (with 2 nights at a refuge).

I loved camping and don’t regret our decision to camp since we got to sleep in the most stunning spots but it’s not a decision that should be taken lightly. By camping you will have to carry at least 20lb packs as opposed to when staying refuges, you can carry as little as 8lb packs.

If you’re considering camping, read this blog for all the details on Camping the TMB.

Staying at Refuges

Staying at a European mountain refuge is really a one of a kind experience. It’s one part shelter and ease of travel, one part incredible culinary delights, and one part a community experience of people who are all here for the same reason, to hike the alps.

Col de Balme camping and refuge, Tour du mont blanc
Refuge on Col de Balme at sunrise

Now there are a few things you should know about staying at refuges.

Refuge Basics

A refuge is a mountain hut and is basically run like a bed and breakfast. Some are privately owned and some are owned by the county/city (Elisabetta for example). Either way, every refuge is dedicated to providing you with the utmost comfort on your adventure. That’s not to say that all refuges are on par with one another. As a matter of fact, it’s important to consider which refuges you’re going to stay at because not all of them deliver a 5 star Alps experience (Chalet Refuge de la Balme for example).

Chalet Refuge de la Balme on the Tour du Mont Blanc stage 2

In refuges, the schedule revolves around dinnertime. Dinnertime is one of the most wonderful experiences of the TMB and includes 3-4 courses. In general, dinner is served between 6:30pm and 7:15pm which means that you should be arriving at least an hour before that so that you can settle in, shower, and clean yourself up for dinner.

If you haven’t booked your stay ahead of time, plan on arriving no later than 5pm or else they may not be able to accommodate you for dinner.

Hiking boots are not allowed in refuges so upon arrival you’ll remove your hiking boots in the boot room and switch to sandals. If you don’t want to pack sandals, crocs are provided by refuges.

Half Board vs Dorm Only

Many of the bigger refuges give you the option of paying for half board, dinner and dorm, or dorm only. Half board is the most typical choice and includes dinner, a bed, and breakfast.

If you’re the type of person who doesn’t really need breakfast, going with the dinner and dorm option is nice option so you can save a little bit of money. If I’d been staying at refuges the whole trip, I would’ve chosen to do this.

Rifugio Bonatti on Tour du Mont Blanc, Italy
The bar where you can order warm drinks, alcohol, and other eats at Bonatti

If perhaps you’re trying to save money and are hauling your own food, paying for just the room is an option.

No matter which board option you go with, you can choose to pay for a take-away lunch for the next day, just make sure you request it the night before.

Espresso/Alcohol Isn’t Included

This isn’t crucial knowledge but I sorta wish I had known this about espresso ahead of time.

While an unlimited supply of coffee and cream is provided with breakfast (assuming you opt for breakfast) at refuges, espresso, which is of course the local specialty, is not included. Each morning we payed for the espresso separately as did many other guests.

You may have already assumed that alcohol isn’t included in which case you’d be correct. Beer and wine are always available but they are not include in dinner. They are added to your tab and payed for separately.

Cost of Refuges

Refuges are pricey as I mentioned previously. Refuge prices can vary greatly depending on the type of refuge you’re staying at. Some refuges offers private rooms, semi-private dorms, and traditional dorm style rooms. There’s also the option of dinner or no dinner and breakfast or no breakfast as I mentioned before. Depending on which room you choose/is available will greatly affect the cost.

For example, this is what a typical rate sheet looks like when you look at each refuge’s info online:

Half board (dinner and breakfast):
– € 43 in dormitory
– € 57.50 in twin room
Overnight stay (no dinner or breakfast):
– € 21 in dormitory
– € 36.50 in twin room
– € 9.50 for breakfast
Packed lunches are available to purchase: € 9.50

In addition, some refuges charge less for kids, but not all.

On average, half board in refuges cost 50 Euros per person per night and in Switzerland they cost around 20 Euros more.

When you go to book your actual refuges, the rates will be shown on the TMB website (see next section).

Booking Refuges

If you’re doing a self guided Tour du Mont Blanc trek in the high season of July or August, you’ll need to book your refuges around 6 months advance. Yep, seriously. There are thousands of people who hike this every year primarily between July and August which means with only a limited amount of available beds in each refuge, you’re going to want to make sure you secure your reservations ahead of time.

To book refuges, the best place to go is 1) the guidebook as I mention at the bottom of this post or 2) the Tour du Mont Blanc website.

The TMB website gives good, basic information on each accommodation including rates, contact info to make reservations. Click here to start making bookings.

The entire TMB website is actually really helpful for planning your TMB trek but only if you’re staying on huts. There’s an interactive map that shows where each refuge is. We personally didn’t use the website because we were camping and it doesn’t really give any information on camping spots.

How Long Does it Take to Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?

  • 9-11 days: Leisurely hiking – Most popular option
  • 6-8 days: Fastpacking
  • 4-5 days: Nearly running

The traditional and most popular way of hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc is in 9-11 days. Since the Tour du Mont Blanc is made up of 11 stages, doing 1, or just a little more than 1 stage per day requires a very leisurely pace, little challenge, and a lot of time spent relaxing in refuges or campgrounds.

Realistically, more experienced hiker would rather take on more milage in a day and would be the kind of people who would rather Fastpack like we did.

Ascending stage 3 of Tour du Mont Blanc
Tackling our second stage of the day, the grueling ascent up to Col de la Seigne

Fastpacking is ideal for people who regularly tackle strenuous 12+ mile day hikes and are carrying just a light pack. It is a bit more challenging to fastpack if you go with the self sufficient approach of camping. Get more details on this with our Camping on the Tour du Mont Blanc Guide.

If you’re interested in doing the trek in 6-8 days, see our guide on How to Fastpack the Tour du Mont Blanc.

If You Don’t Have Time to Hike it All

If you want to stick to a leisurely pace but also want to see all the best parts of the TMB, you’ll want to take the option of using occasional public transportation.

We met several people who did this and were only hiking some stages of the TMB due to time limits on their trip.

Another popular option that could easily choose is to just do half of the Tour by starting in Chamonix and finishing in Courmayeur (or vice versa). If you do choose this option, I recommend prioritizing the France/Italy side as opposed to the Swiss side.

Stage 4 of Tour du Mont Blanc
No hike in the world compares to the immense, in-your-face beauty of Stage 4 of the Tour du Mont Blanc

The finally option for if you’re crunched on time is to just do day hikes from Chamonix or from Courmayeur and there is a cable car, The Aigulle du Midi, that takes you over the mountain from Chamonix to Courmayeur (or vice versa).

Clockwise vs Counter Clockwise

When planning your Tour du mont Blanc adventure, it feels like a huge decision on whether you should go clockwise or anti-clockwise but first let me re-assure you, you can’t go wrong with either option. In fact you should probably do it one time in each direction, it’s that amazing.

Anti-clockwise has now become the traditional way to hike the TMB and the benefit of hiking this way is that since it is the more common way to hike it, you’ll be moving with the flow of traffic and may often run into the same people. This could be a positive or a negative depending on the person.

Stage 2 from Les Contamines to Les Chapieux, TMB
Moments of solitude while ascending stage 2 to Refuge de la Balme

By hiking it clockwise you will likely not see a single person for the first half of your morning. Though anti-clockwise is the more popular direction, clockwise is growing in popularity so you will still have some of the aspect of meeting up with the same hikers throughout your trek.

When hiking it clockwise, it is recommended, but not required, to start in Champex instead of Les Houches because it’s a pretty insane climb to go from Les Houches to Le Brevent.

After hiking it counter clockwise, I will probably go back and hike it clockwise one day. I loved this hike so much and think it would be wonderful to see the Val Ferret and Val Veni from a different angle.

Will you be alone on the Tour Du Mont Blanc?

No. Besides the fact that thousands of people hike the Tour du Mont Blanc every summer, many sections are also hiked as day hikes from many different starting points.

Having a semi crowded trail actually provides some inspiration and healthy peer pressure to keep moving and it also makes you feel like you are part of something bigger when you are hiking it.

The good thing is that you’re never that far from civilization, but keep in mind that there are parts that are far enough away that if something happened, you would absolutely need a mountain rescue, which is why we highly recommend looking into travel insurance.

Are There Cities Along the Tour du Mont Blanc?

Yes. The TMB goes through populated areas and there are refuges along the way, but if you choose to camp it is very important that you read this blog because finding ample food along the way was a challenge for us despite affirmations from others that it’s super easy to find food on the Tour du Mont Blanc.

If you are following the traditional 11 day route and reserve your refugios and hotels like outlined in Overview of the Stages of the TMB, you will not have trouble finding food, entertainment, and a hot shower along the way.

How Hard is the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The Tour du Mont Blanc is rated as difficult and demanding. You should not underestimate the effort it takes to do this hike of a lifetime.

With that being said, there are many ways to make it easier, whether bypassing some strenuous sections or taking cable cars to minimize the impact of the steep downhills.

Not all effort can be avoided, however, and if too many challenges are avoided, then you’d miss out on the true goal of taking on this quest.

Technically speaking, there are a few sheer cliffs, some ladders (that can be avoided), and exposure that under ideal circumstances are perfectly safe. But in the Alps, normal doesn’t exist and the only certainty is uncertainty.

Weather patterns change quick and there are remote sections that would require a mountain rescue. Not to scare you out of doing it, but rather to encourage you to be smart about it. It’s very cheap to travel with travel insurance from World Nomads and then you can hike knowing that if something were to go wrong, you’d be covered.

To prove to yourself what you are you are capable of and then experience the pride, joy, and exhilaration of achievement that soaks into your soul and will prove to be some of your happiest moments in life.

Best Time to Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc

With 14-15 hours of daylight and temperate weather typically in the sixties and seventies, summer is the optimal time to hike the TMB.

If you start in June, there will be some sections of snow to hike through in which you would need to pack crampons.

By July, there will only be patches of snow and when we did it in August, the only thing white we saw were the glorious glaciers and clouds hovering on mountain peaks. It did seem like August had the most amount of rain, but if you travel a lot, you’ve probably noticed that with climate change, anything seems possible these days.

Tour du mont blanc stage 10, French alps
With the exception of 1 day, September brought sunny skies for our entire 7 day trek

September is a great time to do the TMB as it is less crowded and temperatures are still warm enough for a pleasant hike. Supposedly it’s also drier weather in September than August.

Most refuges close up by the end of September so hiking in October might require some creativity of fastpacking or camping and there is a good chance of snowfall. If you are flexible, tenacious, and want more solitude, this might be a good time for you.

The Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc

This is a good time to note that there is a huge race along the Tour du Mont Blanc route that takes place at the end of August each year, also known as the UTMB.

The UTMB is an ultra marathon race that follows the Tour du Mont Blanc hiking route. Top runners can finish the entire 100 miles in less than one day. Crazy, huh?!

We didn’t know when we booked our plane tickets and so we ended up hiking with the racers on one of the days. I was worried that being on the trail with the runners would be a problem but it was actually a really cool experience.

Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc in Chamonix

Because they have to reach certain cutoffs in allowed times for each stage, we only hiked half a day with the runners and while we were very careful to stay out of their way and not disrupt their pace, for the most part we we’re hiking uphill at the same rate as the racers and it was fun to feel the energy of being a part of such an incredible athletic feat.

Point being, it’s not a big deal if you end up timing your trek with the UTMB. If anything, so many hikers are under the impression that you want to avoid this time of year that I almost think that’s part of the reason the trail was so uncrowded in late August.

Weather on the Tour du Mont Blanc

A big reason we ended up fastpacking the TMB was due to weather. We were constantly trying to time our mountain pass crossings with sunny days.

This weather report for Chamonix is usually pretty accurate for the entire French side and gives you a general idea for the TMB but weather on the Courmayeur side often differs from the Chamonix side.

La Flegere decsent, Tour du mont blanc, French alps
Even in our state of frustration from our painful descent, we couldn’t help but be awe stricken by the sunset that graced Chamonix Valley

Plus, each day you’ll be going over mountain passes at much higher elevations than Chamonix and Courmayeur so expect days to feel hotter and nights cooler at the passes or Refugios.

Temperature: June and September average a high of mid sixties and a low of mid fifties, while July and August average a high of seventy and low of sixty.

Rainfall: Summer averages 90 mm of rainfall but July typically has the least rain.

How Fit Do You Need To Be To Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc?

The Tour du Mont Blanc is hard, there’s no doubt about that. But if you are an avid hiker, you shouldn’t have any problem.

You can also check out my blog How To Train For A Strenuous Hike for some tips to make sure you are fully prepared.

If you aren’t an avid hiker but have the desire to take on this incredible journey, set up a free consult with Victor ( and he can get you set up on a program to make sure you are in your best conditioning for this once in a lifetime experience.

Things to Consider before taking on the TMB

  • Weather is unpredictable.  Build a flex day into your schedule.
  • Maximize your time in the TMB area.  We spent 2 days in Copenhagen on the way in and 2 more in Paris on the way out.  I wish I hadn’t.  If I had known how amazing the towns along the TMB were, I would have flown directly here and spent more time enjoying Chamonix, Courmayeur, and Champex.
  • Siesta is a thing. Many businesses close from about 1-4 p.m. and some even longer than this.
  • While there are places to get supplies, it takes up quite a bit of time and isn’t as easy as I thought it would be.
  • Reserve your huts way in advance.

TMB Guidebook and Map

If you are seriously contemplating the TMB, you’ll really want a copy of the Cicernone Guidebook.  I normally don’t use guidebooks, in fact I really dragged my feet on getting the Tour du Mont Blanc guidebook, but when I finally got the book I was so glad I did. It really is a crucial part of hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc on your own.

While I’ve provided you with a lot of information and these blogs will help tremendously with your planning, I loved that I could stop along the trail and see how much further I had to go or to double check that I was on the right path.

The book contains very little information on camping opportunities (which is why we wrote a whole blog on it) but contains good info on refuges and contact info to make bookings.

Rifugio Elisabetta, stage 3 of Tour du Mont Blanc
High or low route? That is the question…Using our TMB map to plan out our route for the day

You could get this map too but I honestly didn’t need it for the TMB.  If you plan on doing hikes in the area around Chamonix, then definitely grab it.

What to Pack for the Tour du Mont Blanc

Tour du Mont Blanc Packing list

Every ounce counts on the TMB and that’s why we’ve put together a complete list of everything you need to pack, and everything you shouldn’t pay for for the Tour du Mont Blanc.

Click here to see the pack list.

Overview of the Stages of the Tour Du Mont Blanc

This is a brief overview of the traditional way to hike the TMB. Remember, this is a challenging hike and some days you will be climbing 3,000 feet and then descending the same amount. When we fastpacked it, we’d have to do two of these passes in one day (which I don’t recommend unless you too are a sucker for torture).

The information provided below with elevation and times are from Cicerone’s guide.

For the most part, we hiked uphill faster than the estimated time but then took time enjoying the views so the overall time listed was pretty spot on for us. I think most people should plan on this being the actual hiking time and add a little time to stop for picnics along the way.

Also, as you can see, by following the recommended stages, you really get a lot of time to enjoy the journey. Most hiking days are less than 6 hours and so this allows time to wake up and enjoy coffee and breakfast, plus time to rest and shower at refugees before dinner, which is almost always at 6:30 or 7:00 pm.

Lastly, there are ways to stick to this itinerary and still cut some sections off with either buses or cable cars. All that information I’ve included in the blog How to Fast pack the TMB.

Stage 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines

Distance: 16 km
Elevation Gain: 646 m
Elevation Loss: 633 m
Time: 5 – 5.5 hrs

Stage 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Distance: 18 km
Elevation Gain: 1316 m
Elevation Loss: 929 m
Time: 7 – 7.5 hrs

Stage 3: Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta

Distance: 15 km
Elevation Gain: 1004 m
Elevation Loss: 258 m
Time: 4.5 – 5 hrs

Stage 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

Distance: 18 km
Elevation Gain: 460 m
Elevation Loss: 1560 m
Time: 5 – 5.5 hrs

Stage 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti

Distance: 12 km
Elevation Gain: 860 m
Elevation Loss: 101 m
Time: 4.5 hours

Stage 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly

Distance: 20 km
Elevation Gain: 895 m
Elevation Loss: 1410 m
Time: 6 – 6.5 hrs

Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex

Distance: 15 km
Elevation Gain: 420 m
Elevation Loss: 565 m
Time: 4 – 4.5 hrs

Stage 8: Champex to Col de la Forclaz

Distance: 16 km
Elevation Gain: 742 m
Elevation Loss: 682 m
Time: 4.5 – 5 hrs

Stage 9: Col de la Forclaz to Tré-le-Champ

Distance: 13 km
Elevation Gain: 1069 m
Elevation Loss: 1178 m
Time: 5.5 hrs

Stage 10: Tré-le-Champ to Refuge La Flégère

Distance: 8 km
Elevation Gain: 733 m
Elevation Loss: 257 m
Time: 3.5 – 4 hrs

Stage 11: La Flégère to Les Houches

Distance: 17 km
Elevation Gain: 772 m
Elevation Loss: 1546 m
Time: 6.5 hrs

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Sunday 26th of March 2023

This blog has been SO HELPFUL!!!! I know it's late in the game but I am trying to plan a trip this August. Unfortunately Rifugio Bonatti is all booked and it looks like there are no other options in that area. So my back up plan is to camp between COURMAYEUR TO LA FOULY. I came across Camping Grandes Jorasses in another blog. Do you think this is the best bet since the Rifugio Bonatti is all booked or should I try to push it from COURMAYEUR TO LA FOULY in one day? I think thats around 20 miles? What are your thoughts?


Tuesday 25th of April 2023

That should work fine. We camped at a campground just a few miles before Bonatii but past Courmayeur (it might have been Jorassses) and it was great for us. I wouldn't push past Bonatti because you don't want to rush the Italy section there since it is so gorgeous. The Switzerland part can be pushed faster imo.


Friday 23rd of December 2022

I'm practically shaking with anticipation for this adventure. I'm going to try to make it there in July of 23.


Saturday 24th of December 2022

It’s so amazing! I hope you get to experience it:)

Atashi Mandal

Monday 26th of July 2021

Very helpful and overall fantastic blog! I am about to embark on the tour and your blog definitely injected even more excitement to get on the trail. Thanks for all the thoughtful details


Tuesday 27th of July 2021

Wonderful to hear! Enjoy the incredible trek!

Dan Nguyen

Monday 19th of April 2021

I have been reading a lot about TMB for next year hike and your article is very clear and precise! It helps me to plan for my trip. Thank you.


Tuesday 20th of April 2021

That is so great to hear! I wish I was hiking the TMB this year...It is so amazing! My mouth is watering thinking about the chocolate croissants and Italian espresso :)


Thursday 27th of August 2020

This is great. I love it.

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